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What is it like camping at the bottom of the grand canyon?
I am determined to get to the bottom of the grand canyon. What is it like carrying all that stuff down there? Does the duffel service carry tents? There is no lodging available at Phantom Ranch for hikers until next October. We want to go this Spring. My husband is not crazy about camping. Should we just do some day hikes and not worry about getting to the bottom?
It is definitely worth trying to get to the bottom of the Grand Canyon as it is a very different (and in my opinion) much more rewarding experience than just staying on the top. There is no feeling on earth like standing beside the muddy waters of the Colorado River with the dark rough walls of the Inner Gorge towering above you. I have been to the bottom over a dozen times and it still makes my heart skip a beat each visit.
Bright Angel campground (the one at the bottom by Phantom Ranch) is about as civilized a backcountry camp site as you are going to find. They have a facet with drinking water and real bathrooms with flush toilets. Each campsite has a picnic table with ammo cans and poles for storing food away from critters. Although it is a large camp area and all the sites are close together, the lush vegitation and the pleasant background noise of nearby Bright Angel creek make it feel very peaceful and not crowded.
As far as how tough it is to backpack down... well, I would say that if you consider yourself fit enough to hike it without a pack than you can probably handle it with one (unless perhaps, you have significant knee or lower back problems). As long as your pack fits correctly, you take your time and stop for rests when you need them than you should not have any problems - especially since you have several months to prepare. I have a couple of friends who are over 40 and a bit over-weight (certainly not athletes) who I have done it with and they did not have problems - they just took it slow at their own pace.
Mr. Danger above has a lot of good tips and suggestions. As he notes, you will want to make sure that you get ready both physically and mentally. Start with going on regular hikes around your home with a small day pack and then try renting or borrowing a pack, load it up with the weight you expect to carry, and try doing some long day hikes with that (doing at least one easy overnight practice trip would be ideal). You are going to want to be building up your leg muscles, increasing your cardio-vascular endurance, and also building up stomach and lower back muscles. Note - it is not training for the olympics - just that if you don't do regular cardio exercise than you should start and make sure that you get a day or two experience carrying a full pack.
As Mr. Danger notes you could try buying stuff on eBay or rent from several places near the canyon. A couple of additional suggestions about packing the canyon for the first time:
1) While it does not have to be the ultra-ligh high-end stuff, make sure that you get true backpacking equipment. You do not want to be carrying an 10lb 'car camping' tent or other much heavier equipment. If your entire pack - including water - is over 30lbs than something is wrong.
2) Fit is everything. Regardless of if it is bought, borrowed or rented find somebody knowledgeable to guide you in loading and fitting your pack. I will take a well-balanced well-fit heavy pack over a poorly packed, ill-fitting light pack any day. Remember that the weight should ride on your hips, not your shoulders.
3) Invest in some trekking poles (look like ski poles). These make a huge difference by taking strain off your back and knees and improving your balance. Having a pair of trekking poles is like taking 10lbs off your pack.
4) Be warned that the South Rim is at 7000 feet and does experience snow and freezing temps in winter. Icy patches can be quite common on the upper stretches of trails well into April. Check with the backcountry office before you go - if they are really icy, you will want to have instep crampons.
5) See about getting your meals at the Phantom Ranch canteen. Even if you are not staying in the dorms/cabins, they always have extra dinners and breakfast seats that backpackers can reserve (you MUST have reservations - made through Xanterra). Although a bit pricy, the food is good and it means you don't have to carry food or cooking supplies. Bag lunches (as well as individual snack items) can be bought at the canteen without reservation.
6) Backcountry camping permits are selected 4 months in advance. Spring is a popular time for backpacking in the canyon, so permits get picked quickly. If for instance, you want to go in April, than you should have your permit request sent in well before January 1 (see link below).
As far as duffel service goes... yes, (for most of the year anyways) you can hire a mule to carry your gear. The gear must fit in a space of 36x20x13 inches, which could prove a challenge for two people's gear. It costs about $60 per duffel per trip (ie: one trip down and one trip up) and you can only drop-off and pick-up your gear at certain times during the day. You are still going to have to carry a day pack with water, snacks and probably some bad weather gear. Considering the hassle and expense of the duffels, I would say just backpack it - it is a great experience and the feeling of accomplishment and independence that you get when you come out of the canyon carrying your own gear is something you will remember for the rest of your life.
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